Showing posts with label app. Show all posts
Showing posts with label app. Show all posts

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HDR Low Light and High Dynamic Range photography in the Google Camera App



As anybody who has tried to use a smartphone to photograph a dimly lit scene knows, the resulting pictures are often blurry or full of random variations in brightness from pixel to pixel, known as image noise. Equally frustrating are smartphone photographs of scenes where there is a large range of brightness levels, such as a family photo backlit by a bright sky. In high dynamic range (HDR) situations like this, photographs will either come out with an overexposed sky (turning it white) or an underexposed family (turning them into silhouettes).

HDR+ is a feature in the Google Camera app for Nexus 5 and Nexus 6 that uses computational photography to help you take better pictures in these common situations. When you press the shutter button, HDR+ actually captures a rapid burst of pictures, then quickly combines them into one. This improves results in both low-light and high dynamic range situations. Below we delve into each case and describe how HDR+ works to produce a better picture.

Capturing low-light scenes

The camera on a smartphone has a small lens, meaning that it doesnt gather much light. If a scene is dimly lit, the resulting photograph will contain image noise. One solution is to lengthen the exposure time - how long the sensor chip collects light. This reduces noise, but since its hard to hold a smartphone perfectly steady, long exposures have the unwanted side effect of blurring the shot. Devices with optical image stabilization (OIS) sense this "camera shake” and shift the lens rapidly to compensate. This allows longer exposures with less blur, but it can’t help with really dark scenes.

HDR+ addresses this problem by taking a burst of shots with short exposure times, aligning them algorithmically, and replacing each pixel with the average color at that position across all the shots. Averaging multiple shots reduces noise, and using short exposures reduces blur. HDR+ also begins the alignment process by choosing the sharpest single shot from the burst. Astronomers call this lucky imaging, a technique used to reduce the blurring of images caused by Earths shimmering atmosphere.
A low light example is captured at dusk. The picture at left was taken with HDR+ off and the picture at right with HDR+ on. The HDR+ image is brighter, cleaner, and sharper, with much more detail seen in the subject’s hair and eyelashes. Photos by Florian Kainz
Capturing high dynamic range scenes

Another limitation of smartphone cameras is that their sensor chips have small pixels. This limits the cameras dynamic range, which refers to the span between the brightest highlight that doesnt blow out (turn white) and the darkest shadow that doesnt look black. One solution is to capture a sequence of pictures with different exposure times (sometimes called bracketing), then align and blend the images together. Unfortunately, bracketing causes parts of the long-exposure image to blow out and parts of the short-exposure image to be noisy. This makes alignment hard, leading to ghosts, double images, and other artifacts.

However, bracketing is not actually necessary; one can use the same exposure time in every shot. By using a short exposure HDR+ avoids blowing out highlights, and by combining enough shots it reduces noise in the shadows. This enables the software to boost the brightness of shadows, saving both the subject and the sky, as shown in the example below. And since all the shots look similar, alignment is robust; you won’t see ghosts or double images in HDR+ images, as one sometimes sees with other HDR software.
A classic high dynamic range situation. With HDR+ off (left), the camera exposes for the subjects’ faces, causing the landscape and sky to blow out. With HDR+ on (right), the picture successfully captures the subjects, the landscape, and the sky. Photos by Ryan Geiss
Our last example illustrates all three of the problems we’ve talked about - high dynamic range, low light, and camera shake. With HDR+ off, a photo of Princeton University Chapel (shown below) taken with Nexus 6 chooses a relatively long 1/12 second exposure. Although optical image stabilization reduces camera shake, this is a long time to hold a camera still, so the image is slightly blurry. Since the scene was very dark, the walls are noisy despite the long exposure. Therefore, strong denoising is applied, causing smearing (below, left inset image). Finally, because the scene also has high dynamic range, the window at the end of the nave is blown out (below, right inset image), and the side arches are lost in darkness.
Click here to see the full resolution image. Photo by Marc Levoy
HDR+ mode performs better on all three problems, as seen in the image below: the chandelier at left is cleaner and sharper, the window is no longer blown out, there is more detail in the side arches, and since a burst of shots are captured and the software begins alignment by choosing the sharpest shot in the burst (lucky imaging), the resulting picture is sharp.
Click here to see the full resolution image. Photo by Marc Levoy
Heres an album containing these comparisons and others as high-resolution images. For each scene in the album there is a pair of images captured by Nexus 6; the first was was taken with HDR+ off, and the second with HDR+ on.

Tips on using HDR+

Capturing a burst in HDR+ mode takes between 1/3 second and 1 second, depending on how dark the scene is. During this time youll see a circle animating on the screen (left image below). Try to hold still until it finishes. The combining step also takes time, so if you scroll to the camera roll right after taking the shot, youll see a thumbnail image and a progress bar (right image below). When the bar reaches 100%, your HDR+ picture is ready.
Should you leave HDR+ mode on? We do. The only times we turn it off are for fast-moving sports, because HDR+ pictures take longer to capture than a single shot, or for scenes that are so dark we need the flash. But before you turn off HDR+ for these action shots or super-dark scenes, give it a try; we think youll be surprised how well it works!

At this time HDR+ is available only on Nexus 5 and Nexus 6, as part of the Google Camera app.

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Meet Hopscotch the iOS app teaching kids how to program

Ive blogged before about the growing movement to teach young children how to program. Hopscotch is a new iPad app that lets kids drag and drop blocks of code to create their own programs. Kids can make games, stories, animations, interactive art, apps...if they can imagine it, they can build it with Hopscotch. But the important thing about teaching kids to code is not just that theyll have fun but theyll learn problem solving, critical thinking, and the fundamentals of computer programming. Check Hopscotch out its free and you dont have to be a kid to use it.

from The Universal Machine http://universal-machine.blogspot.com/

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Lens Blur in the new Google Camera app



One of the biggest advantages of SLR cameras over camera phones is the ability to achieve shallow depth of field and bokeh effects. Shallow depth of field makes the object of interest "pop" by bringing the foreground into focus and de-emphasizing the background. Achieving this optical effect has traditionally required a big lens and aperture, and therefore hasn’t been possible using the camera on your mobile phone or tablet.

That all changes with Lens Blur, a new mode in the Google Camera app. It lets you take a photo with a shallow depth of field using just your Android phone or tablet. Unlike a regular photo, Lens Blur lets you change the point or level of focus after the photo is taken. You can choose to make any object come into focus simply by tapping on it in the image. By changing the depth-of-field slider, you can simulate different aperture sizes, to achieve bokeh effects ranging from subtle to surreal (e.g., tilt-shift). The new image is rendered instantly, allowing you to see your changes in real time.

Lens Blur replaces the need for a large optical system with algorithms that simulate a larger lens and aperture. Instead of capturing a single photo, you move the camera in an upward sweep to capture a whole series of frames. From these photos, Lens Blur uses computer vision algorithms to create a 3D model of the world, estimating the depth (distance) to every point in the scene. Here’s an example -- on the left is a raw input photo, in the middle is a “depth map” where darker things are close and lighter things are far away, and on the right is the result blurred by distance:

Here’s how we do it. First, we pick out visual features in the scene and track them over time, across the series of images. Using computer vision algorithms known as Structure-from-Motion (SfM) and bundle adjustment, we compute the camera’s 3D position and orientation and the 3D positions of all those image features throughout the series.

Once we’ve got the 3D pose of each photo, we compute the depth of each pixel in the reference photo using Multi-View Stereo (MVS) algorithms. MVS works the way human stereo vision does: given the location of the same object in two different images, we can triangulate the 3D position of the object and compute the distance to it. How do we figure out which pixel in one image corresponds to a pixel in another image? MVS measures how similar they are -- on mobile devices, one particularly simple and efficient way is computing the Sum of Absolute Differences (SAD) of the RGB colors of the two pixels.

Now it’s an optimization problem: we try to build a depth map where all the corresponding pixels are most similar to each other. But that’s typically not a well-posed optimization problem -- you can get the same similarity score for different depth maps. To address this ambiguity, the optimization also incorporates assumptions about the 3D geometry of a scene, called a "prior,” that favors reasonable solutions. For example, you can often assume two pixels near each other are at a similar depth. Finally, we use Markov Random Field inference methods to solve the optimization problem.

Having computed the depth map, we can re-render the photo, blurring pixels by differing amounts depending on the pixel’s depth, aperture and location relative to the focal plane. The focal plane determines which pixels to blur, with the amount of blur increasing proportionally with the distance of each pixel to that focal plane. This is all achieved by simulating a physical lens using the thin lens approximation.

The algorithms used to create the 3D photo run entirely on the mobile device, and are closely related to the computer vision algorithms used in 3D mapping features like Google Maps Photo Tours and Google Earth. We hope you have fun with your bokeh experiments!
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